We woke up REALLY early this morning and walked from our hostel to the Madrid train station to catch a 9AM train to Cordóba. The RENFE trains were absolutely wonderful in that they had TONS of leg room (at least on this first journey) so Sandy and I were really able to stretch out and she was able to sleep. I have a hard time sleeping on transport systems because I'm afraid of missing my stop so I stayed awake and watched the window listening to the soundtrack from 'Gladiator' which was oddly appropriate for our journey into Andalucía.
Sandy in the Madrid train station with the overly stuff Vera bag. Stories of baggage to come ...
Arriving in Cordóba, we took a cab directly to our hostel, the Terrace Backpackers and there we met Kevan (whom Sandy and I took great pleasure in calling Kev-AN when he wasn't within ear shot ... but simply out of love), who checked us into the hostel. We then immediately headed to the main reason to go to Cordóba, La Mezquita. Spain was once run by Moors who were Islamic and there is still a very strong Arabic architecture culture in Spain, even though most Muslims and Jews were kicked out during the Inquisition that began in the 1500s under Ferdinand II and Isabelle and ran until the 1800s. But we'll get to the Inquisition later. La Mezquita is a giant mosque that was converted into a Catholic church ... talk about religiously confused. Oh well, at least they're all praying to the same guy. This mosque has been feature in every Spanish textbook I've ever had though and it is a place I have wanted to see for a long time. Being inside was an incredible and surreal experience. The architecture is just phenomenal and wandering through the mosque, realizing all the history of the building was truly remarkable. The courtyard outside was also incredible because the orange trees are planted in rows like the pillars inside so that the worship space continues out doors where individuals of the Islamic faith would wash themselves in the various water streams that ran through the courtyard to prepare themselves for worship. It smelled like honeysuckle in the courtyard and it was just a perfect place.
The gorgeous streets of Cordóba. Can you tell why this was one of my two favorite cities in Spain?
The outside of La Mezquita and the center of town.
The courtyard and the orange trees.
Inside La Mezquita.
Following our visit to the mosque, we did a bit of shopping. Sandy and I did the most damage in Cordóba. Everything was dirty cheap, and things I thought should've been at least €25-30 were only €5-10. Oh Cordóba. I began what was to end up being a complete Arabic tea set, buying cups, the plate to keep the cups on, and a beautiful beaded mat to put it all on, as well as some other things. We returned to the hostel which was 5 minutes walk from every major historical site in town to put away our loot. We went up to the roof for a bit and read, Sandy continuing 'Long Way Down' (Charley and Ewan anyone?) and 'Confessions of An Economic Hit Man' for me.
In the afternoon, we took a walk along the river opposite the old city center. Sandy and I found another park (again, we are 5 years old) and played because there were no children present. We walked down the Puente Romano which was a bridge built by the Romans almost 2,000 years ago. This is something America lacks: 2,000 year old relics built by the Caesars. We then headed towards the Alcazar. Now Rick Steves only gave this two triangles. We feel he is mistaken once again. This totally deserved three because a.) it was GORGEOUS especially the garden, and b.) this was the Headquarters of the Inquisition. Spain's iron fist was centered here. C'mon Rick, get with the program. A lot of marriage ceremonies occur in the gardens of this place, and it's easy to see why because it's GORGEOUS. And for the student discounted rate, totally worth it.
On Puente Romano.
In the park along the river bank with the Alcazar, Mezquita and Puente Romano in the background.
In the gardens of the Alcazar.
The Alcazar tower from the garden.
We strolled down back towards our hostel which was on the main road in old town and stopped at this little cafe that was around the corner from the hostel. I had my first mixed paella. Paella is a traditional Spanish dish, and many non-Spainards consider it the national dish of the country. It has a base of rice, vegetables and seasoning (saffron I believe which gives the white rice it's yellow tint). The paella mixta is basically the meat smorgasbord of paella. I think there was crab, prawns, and chicken in mine, but it's entirely possible that there was also duck, rabbit, snails and other forms of meat. Don't know, don't care because it was PHENOMENAL. Oh goodness, I love paella and I saw a recipe for it on a apron in a souvenir shop and I intend to make it at home because it's easy and DELICIOUS.
This is what paella looks like (not my photo).
While sitting at the restaurant, Sandy and I heard a marching band coming, we knew it was Holy Week and Kev-AN told us about processions happening around the city, and Sandy grabbed her camera while I sat at the table finishing my dinner. All of a sudden I see hear come running back to the table and she said, 'GIVE ME YOUR CAMERA. THE KLAN IS COMING!'
Now, let me explain. In Spain during Holy Week, a bunch of Catholic fraternal brotherhoods process through cities across Spain. Their costumes are ... well ... let's just say they couldn't wear it in America, especially the all-white version. The brothers wear full-length robes with, I kid you not, pointed hats on their heads. They look like the Klan. I had to keep reminding myself that this costume was religious and served to demonstrate piety. So prepare yourself for the following pictures and know they are not part of the KKK, they are simply incredibly pious Spanairds.
The Catholic brotherhood doing this processions had white robes with blue ... ehm ... hoods.
A float depicting the arrest of Christ. I took these from the terrace of our hostel. Kev-AN was good in explaining some of the oddities of the processions, i.e. children collecting wax from the candles of the priests.
At 10PM, Sandy and I went to, what Sandy described as 'the best idea you've ever had'. Throughout Spain, they have all these old bath houses left over form when the Moors were there. They have converted these bath houses into modern day spas. Can you see where I'm heading with this? I booked Sandy and I an Arabic spa 2-hour experience, complete with access to the baths, as much tea as we wanted (TEA! NOM NOM NOM!), and a 15-minute massage session each. We learned all about how to successfully navigate the baths. Starting with a longer session in the warm pool, then no more than five minutes in the scalding hot bath (which was my personal favorite), and finally, as long as you can take in the FREEZING COLD bath, which was generally no longer than five seconds and only up to my waist which was as far as we could go before quickly exiting. Then you start the cycle again. It was one of my finest ideas, and we felt thoroughly relaxed coming out of there. Although it was a bit odd hearing the soundtrack to Holy Week when exiting the building and getting caught in a procession. However, seeing an enormous float of the Virgin Mary making an insanely tight turn was well worth it.
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